Build Your Own Storm Windows


Bill of Materials

Rubber Mounts
bulletSource: Seismic Audio
bulletAtt: Steve Acree
bullet1309 Island Place
bulletMemphis, TN 38103
bulletItem title: 8 LARGE hard rubber feet with steel washer inserts.
bulletItem URL:
bulletQuantity: 32 just in case.
bulletSource: West Marine
bulletItem: 1.5 inch x 5/16 x 18
bulletQuantity: 32
bulletSource: West Marine
bulletItem: 5/16 washers
bulletQuantity: 32
Lexan Sheets
bulletSize: 32.125" X 24.875" @ +/- 0.062
bulletQuantity: 6


Note that each window has different measurements for where the mounting holes are. So each window must be specifically made for the window. Allow about 3 hours for each window.

  1. Remove the steel insert from the rubber feet.
  2. Drill the rubber feet to fit the 5/16 bolts
  3. Align the lexan sheets and drill a inch hole at the top center of all the sheets. This can be done in one step. The hole should be about 1.5 inches from the top edge and centered. This hole is for securing the window to the boat when mounting them, particularly on the port side. Once dropped into the sea, probably gone forever.
  4. Select the first window to work on. I started at the aft starboard because it was the most accessible and easy to do.
  5. Hold the sheet up to the mounting holes and align so they are equidistant from each nearest edge. Put the clear film out, opaque film in. Best done by two people. Mark the upper right hole to drill. Alignment with the mounting holes is easer if the corner back (opaque) film is pealed back. Otherwise leave the film on both sides!
  6. Drill the upper right hole.
  7. Hold the sheet back up and secure loosely with the rubber foot, washer and bolt.
  8. Align the sheet so all remaining mounting holes are equidistant from each nearest edge. Mark the upper left hole to drill.
  9. Drill the upper left hole.
  10. Hold the sheet back up and secure loosely at both top holes with the rubber foot, washer and bolt. If your hole was off slightly, use a round rasp to cut the hole so the bolt does not bind on the plastic.
  11. Repeat 5 10 for the lower holes.
  12. I put 6 small holes (two rows of 3) in the upper left corner of the starboard aft window to identify which window it belongs to and which side is out. The starboard middle got 5, etc. to the port aft which got one.
  13. Repeat 4 through 12 for each window, leaving the film on. Note that you will need to use a micro plane to trim the port forward lower forward corner to match the curve of the superstructure before you can begin drilling the holes.

Now you have all the raw sheets mounted.

  1. Select the first window to finish the edges on and take it down.
  2. Using a micro plane, round all four corners to about a .5 to 1 inch radius, whatever pleases you.
  3. Starting with course 3M sandpaper, sand all the saw marks out of the edges.
  4. Then use medium 3M sandpaper to sand all the course paper marks out.
  5. Then use fine 3M sandpaper to sand all the medium marks out. The edge should now start to darken and become more transparent.
  6. Use WetOrDry 400 with water on all the edges.
  7. Use WetOrDry 600 with water on all the edges.
  8. Finish with WetOrDry 800 with water and the edge will be fairly transparent and nice looking.
  9. Wash the glass window.
  10. Peal the film off both sides.
  11. Mount the finished storm pane.